Round the corner

Arrived back in La Coruna after flying trip home. It's cheaper to fly from La Coruna to Heathrow than to get from Heathrow to home - how does that make sense! Back to the boat just in time for late dinner at the lovely Marina restaurant. Alex had his steak and I had ham,egg and chips Spanish style.

Thursday 11th June

Planning to leave on Sunday as wind is becoming northerly and weather looks perfect for our next leg. We will use the next couple of days to complete a few more jobs. I've moved into top gear teak deck cleaning and it's now looking jolly marvellous. We've also marked the anchor chain and Alex has done some serious lazarette sorting. Also managed our final La Coruna run and made it up to the Hercules lighthouse for some final great views. Plenty of food has been gathered from market and supermarket so we're ready for a prompt start on Sunday.

Sunday 14th June

Time to leave. We've had a great time here but ready to sail further South especially as the weather looks set fair with steady norther lies. Quick trip to the fuel barge to fill up after using some fuel across Biscay. Alex reckons we use a litre a mile. Luckily with all our new fantastic green energy sources we won't need to use the generator too often.

We've started a rush of boats leaving with the 2 French boats following us to the fuel barge and out of port. Alex let me do the boat manoeuvres and all went well. Sunny trip down the coast with the wind piping up just after we decided to head to Corme for the night. Entered fairly cautiously with 25 knots of wind and not a lot of space between the breakwater and viveiros ( large mussel growing platforms ). Corme looks very quiet with little signs of activity and the shell fish farm looking derelict. Perfect anchorage between 2 small beaches and soon joined by a French Ovni and small Irish ketch. Roast chicken as its Sunday with lemon and garlic.

Monday 15th June

Perfect sunny morning. Time to weigh anchor and head for Finisterre ( the end of the world ) first negotiating the Costa la Morte ( the coast of death ). Sounds like a fun day!

Funny to think we are retracing the route we took with Panties 1 (Pantalaimon 1 our old Bavaria36 ). I can remember this passage 5 years ago when it was quite gloomy and a large Atlantic swell and the coast looked very ominous. Luckily today is very warm and sunny with wind F4 abaft the beam and a pretty flat sea. Couldn't really be any better so cruising chute up shorts and sun cream and quickly overtook the Ovni which left a good while before us.

Wind soon piped up and had to get the chute down when gusting 26 knots. Lovely and sunny though but as we got to Finisterre we ended up with 2 reefs and staysail. They're quite right when they say the wind gets quite fierce around Finisterre over 35 knots. Sailed up behind Finisterre to a sheltered anchorage between 2 beautiful beaches. Hot sun and a G&T - heaven. Chicken and spicy sausage tonight on deck in a very lovely place.

Tuesday 16th June

Off to our favourite Galician port - Muros. Left our lovely anchorage and heading South again. A very pleasant sail with the wind behind us, sunshine and warmth. Arrived at Muros mid afternoon for a sunbathe and scrabble.

Next morning we weighed anchor and moved into the lovely new Marina which has been built since our last visit 5 years ago. Loads of people in the sea raking for clams.

Met at the marina by Pedro who was extremely helpful taking our lines and ensuring we had moored in a satisfactory manner! Alex went to do the paperwork and then we had the customs inspecting us led by a lovely young Spanish lady who was very excited by the weather which is going to be hot and sunny at least until after the weekend. Off for some shopping at the very handy Gadis ( supermarket ) as we urgently required white wine and sparkling water. After stowing the food we went to refresh our memories of Muros which really is delightful. A lovey promenade along the sea front and a mass of little back streets. We identified the restaurant where we previously had an excellent lunch and decide to return to make sure it's still as good. Lovely cod casserole for me and monkfish and prawns for Alex after starters of razor clams and calamares all washed down with a rather scrummy Albariño. Finished lunch about 17.30 just in time for a drink.

After our excesses the next morning we set out for a long walk planning to get to the lighthouse at the end of the San Francisco beach. However got way laid by Trevor and Jan from Ruby, a very fit couple in their 70s who have done the ARC three times so it can't be that bad. Had a long chat then headed to the tourist office via the washing machine - clean sheets tonight. We found a very helpful young man in the town hall/ tourist office who obviously wanted to practise his English and gave us very detailed information plus a couple of maps. Off we set in blazing sunshine with a cooling breeze. Lovely walk to San Francisco beach and then along a shady path bordering the beach. Then we turned down the isthmus to the lighthouse. Lovely views and a path round the headland to a lake and another nearly deserted spectacular white sanded beach with turquoise water. We then turned back and wended our way back, 20km altogether. We went straight to the nearest cafe for beer and cafe frappe - delicious.

On our return to Panties we found Hejira a Southerly moored by us who is doing the ARC+. They had engine failure on the way in and no wind so ended up using their our board. They seem to have had a few problems and is also running to a schedule in order to deliver crew to airports. Another quick trip to the very handy Gadis so now well stocked with lots of lovely food. A huge chunk of pork for €3.50 which will definitely do 2 dinners plus lots of lovely fruit, fresh figs, nectarines,apricots and oranges. A quick visit to the fish stall for clams and John Dory fresh off the boat.We invited Trevor and Jan for drinks and gleaned lots of useful info on the ARC and places to stop on our way down. Then had our John Dory for supper, saving the clams for tomorrow. A lovely day.

Friday 19th June

Set sail today heading for Ria Pontevedra. This is new pastures for us as we are going further South than we managed with old Panties. Looking forward to exploring completely new Ria. Really hot today sailing in shorts and T shirt and bimini up. Gorgeous. Wind between 15 and 25 knots lovely. Decided to pass the time bread making. A very satisfactory loaf all ready for mopping up clam juices. Past some islands and into the Ria Pontevedra and anchored off a massive beach Playa Silgar just by Porto Novo. So hot even I retreated to the shade of our bimini and then went for a dip, first of the season! Flipping cold but very refreshing.

Stayed up late blasting Dire Straits into our own private anchorage and sitting on the foredeck watching the sunset. Ahhhhh romantic!!!

Gentle potter up the river to little Marina at Combarro after breakfasting in swimsuits.

It's fiesta time so must go and party.

 

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The Spanish Adventure

Thursday 28th May

We are so pleased to have come straight over to Spain. It is lovely to be in sunshine and La Coruna is a great city to spend a little bit of time.

Very picturesque and funnily enough great bars and restaurants. The only problem is getting into Spanish time so lunch at 15.00 and don't even think of dinner until after 21.00. Lots of lovely fish in the market and quite a few we don't recognise but lovely and fresh and very good value.

Lots of shell fish so we are going to be braver and cook clams and razor clams.

We had a lovely 40 mile sail from Cedeira into La Coruna with the wind behind and the sun shining. Up to 30 knots of wind so a reef in the main and the staysail which seemed to work well. Alex still very excited by the amount of energy we produced whilst at anchor and we left with fully charged batteries.

Had a few conversations with the Captain of a very large container ship heading to Ferrol the large commercial port opposite La Coruna. After a couple of course changes we managed to miss each other and he very politely radioed us to say thank you. Lovely to return to the La Coruna marina after 5 years. We kept our last boat a Bavaria 36 here for a winter 5 years ago and nothing seems to have changed. The rather lovely young lady in the marina office remembered the name Pantalaimon and the young Irish chap is still here who also remembered so we feel very at home and most welcomed. The marina is pretty empty with a couple of Brits, Swedes, French and German boats. Got a pretty good deal on berthing fees as we are staying a couple of weeks and flying home for a week on Wednesday.The best thing is it's warm and sunny.

Friday 29th May

Cleaning,tidying,washing and shopping today. Started the teak cleaning as its time to make Pantie's beautiful. We left in such a rush that lots of little jobs didn't quite get done so it's lovely to have some time here to get a little more ship shape. Somehow all these jobs are so much more pleasant to do in the sunshine. Had a lovely trip to the market and have some enormous langoustines and John Dory for supper as are ward for all our hard labours. Quite enjoying the Albariño white wine too.

Saturday 30th May

Time for a run. Off we trot all along the beautiful promenade in the sunshine. Fantastic cycle track and loads of people walking, jogging, running and cycling with a superb view of the bay. On the way back we detour around the back of the lighthouse, the Tour d'Hercules. Back for lunch and chores then showers. We are going to have Saturday night out on the town! A lovely stroll in and exploration discovering pretty little squares and the odd bar for a glass of Albariño. Time for tapas so we have already spotted a Pulperia with octopi arranged very attractive in large glass vases! Calamares to start then potatoe and octopus with paprika all washed down with some red. Yum yum. Living on sea food at the moment.

Here are the clam fishermen in action.

Sunday 31st May

Tapas out is not enough for us we've decided to do Sunday lunch and are booked into the very smart Marina restaurant for 15.00. Before that we'd better have another run to work up an appetite so off we go again. Not quite so sunny today so ran a bit faster and enjoyed the slightly cooler temperature. Smartened up for lunch, I even put a frock on and Alex a smart shirt and jacket. We shared a plate of clams ' Marinera' in a delicious fragrant light tomato sauce then Alex had a very nice steak and I had marinated pork with onions. Both very delicious and we'd better have pud too, tiramisu and cheesecake. Stagger back to the boat for Scrabble and bed.

Monday 1st June

Better get a few more jobs done today. Another trip to the shops. Very good supermarket and we are going to do hake casserole tonight. Alex made some lovely fish stock with the shells of the langoustines and the bones of the John Dory and we are going to add onion, potatoe,garlic and fresh peas plus paprika. How Spanish is that? Back to the boat with the supplies then off to the chandlers which is a good walk along the lovely sea front which is nearly all pedestrianised plus cycle path. We've noticed some cruise ships coming in which I'm sure weren't here before and looking at the numbers disgorged must be bringing some wealth into the city which is looking reasonably affluent. Although there are a few beggars around which again I don't remember seeing previously.

Took a couple of pics of the hospital here which looks a little more attractive than Derriford.

The trip to the chandlers wasn't a great success as we were served from a counter and had to try and explain in Spanish our various requirements. Never mind we'll collect what we need when we go home. A bit more teak cleaning and jobs in the afternoon and our delicious Spanish hake supper. We've decided to go to Santiago de Compostello tomorrow for a bit of an outing.

Tuesday 2nd June

Up early for our day trip out. A brisk 45 min walk to the station then 2 very cheap return tickets to Santiago. Only 30 min train journey. A remarkable city almost completely devoid of modernisation. Very narrow streets with arched covered walkways and all beautifully kept. You can truly imagine the pilgrims and devout wandering through these very same streets centuries ago. After a coffee and tortilla we obtained a map and information from the tourist centre and hot footed to the cathedral. Very atmospheric and impressive sculptures, chapels and amazing altar. Had a lovely wander around with a recorded guide and the went to kiss and embrace St James then down to the crypt to see the holy remains. Just as we were thinking of leaving a small mass was performed with the chanting led by a nun with a remarkable voice. Quite spine tingling even for an atheist!

We then followed the map around the main historic buildings popping in to the odd church or two and enjoying the busy market. All absolutely beautiful, clean and so well preserved. Must be time for lunch and that means more seafood. Stopped at a very typical Spanish family run restaurant and manged more clams Marinera,razor clams, sardines and Albariño. A wander through the park then time to catch the train home to Panties. A very enjoyable day out. Tomorrow we are flying home for a week to catch up with children and collect a few more bits and pieces. Back next Wednesday!

Pics of Santiago to follow!

 

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