Arrived back in La Coruna after flying trip home. It's cheaper to fly from La Coruna to Heathrow than to get from Heathrow to home - how does that make sense! Back to the boat just in time for late dinner at the lovely Marina restaurant. Alex had his steak and I had ham,egg and chips Spanish style.
Thursday 11th June
Planning to leave on Sunday as wind is becoming northerly and weather looks perfect for our next leg. We will use the next couple of days to complete a few more jobs. I've moved into top gear teak deck cleaning and it's now looking jolly marvellous. We've also marked the anchor chain and Alex has done some serious lazarette sorting. Also managed our final La Coruna run and made it up to the Hercules lighthouse for some final great views. Plenty of food has been gathered from market and supermarket so we're ready for a prompt start on Sunday.
Sunday 14th June
Time to leave. We've had a great time here but ready to sail further South especially as the weather looks set fair with steady norther lies. Quick trip to the fuel barge to fill up after using some fuel across Biscay. Alex reckons we use a litre a mile. Luckily with all our new fantastic green energy sources we won't need to use the generator too often.
We've started a rush of boats leaving with the 2 French boats following us to the fuel barge and out of port. Alex let me do the boat manoeuvres and all went well. Sunny trip down the coast with the wind piping up just after we decided to head to Corme for the night. Entered fairly cautiously with 25 knots of wind and not a lot of space between the breakwater and viveiros ( large mussel growing platforms ). Corme looks very quiet with little signs of activity and the shell fish farm looking derelict. Perfect anchorage between 2 small beaches and soon joined by a French Ovni and small Irish ketch. Roast chicken as its Sunday with lemon and garlic.
Monday 15th June
Perfect sunny morning. Time to weigh anchor and head for Finisterre ( the end of the world ) first negotiating the Costa la Morte ( the coast of death ). Sounds like a fun day!
Funny to think we are retracing the route we took with Panties 1 (Pantalaimon 1 our old Bavaria36 ). I can remember this passage 5 years ago when it was quite gloomy and a large Atlantic swell and the coast looked very ominous. Luckily today is very warm and sunny with wind F4 abaft the beam and a pretty flat sea. Couldn't really be any better so cruising chute up shorts and sun cream and quickly overtook the Ovni which left a good while before us.
Wind soon piped up and had to get the chute down when gusting 26 knots. Lovely and sunny though but as we got to Finisterre we ended up with 2 reefs and staysail. They're quite right when they say the wind gets quite fierce around Finisterre over 35 knots. Sailed up behind Finisterre to a sheltered anchorage between 2 beautiful beaches. Hot sun and a G&T - heaven. Chicken and spicy sausage tonight on deck in a very lovely place.
Tuesday 16th June
Off to our favourite Galician port - Muros. Left our lovely anchorage and heading South again. A very pleasant sail with the wind behind us, sunshine and warmth. Arrived at Muros mid afternoon for a sunbathe and scrabble.
Next morning we weighed anchor and moved into the lovely new Marina which has been built since our last visit 5 years ago. Loads of people in the sea raking for clams.
Met at the marina by Pedro who was extremely helpful taking our lines and ensuring we had moored in a satisfactory manner! Alex went to do the paperwork and then we had the customs inspecting us led by a lovely young Spanish lady who was very excited by the weather which is going to be hot and sunny at least until after the weekend. Off for some shopping at the very handy Gadis ( supermarket ) as we urgently required white wine and sparkling water. After stowing the food we went to refresh our memories of Muros which really is delightful. A lovey promenade along the sea front and a mass of little back streets. We identified the restaurant where we previously had an excellent lunch and decide to return to make sure it's still as good. Lovely cod casserole for me and monkfish and prawns for Alex after starters of razor clams and calamares all washed down with a rather scrummy Albariño. Finished lunch about 17.30 just in time for a drink.
After our excesses the next morning we set out for a long walk planning to get to the lighthouse at the end of the San Francisco beach. However got way laid by Trevor and Jan from Ruby, a very fit couple in their 70s who have done the ARC three times so it can't be that bad. Had a long chat then headed to the tourist office via the washing machine - clean sheets tonight. We found a very helpful young man in the town hall/ tourist office who obviously wanted to practise his English and gave us very detailed information plus a couple of maps. Off we set in blazing sunshine with a cooling breeze. Lovely walk to San Francisco beach and then along a shady path bordering the beach. Then we turned down the isthmus to the lighthouse. Lovely views and a path round the headland to a lake and another nearly deserted spectacular white sanded beach with turquoise water. We then turned back and wended our way back, 20km altogether. We went straight to the nearest cafe for beer and cafe frappe - delicious.
On our return to Panties we found Hejira a Southerly moored by us who is doing the ARC+. They had engine failure on the way in and no wind so ended up using their our board. They seem to have had a few problems and is also running to a schedule in order to deliver crew to airports. Another quick trip to the very handy Gadis so now well stocked with lots of lovely food. A huge chunk of pork for €3.50 which will definitely do 2 dinners plus lots of lovely fruit, fresh figs, nectarines,apricots and oranges. A quick visit to the fish stall for clams and John Dory fresh off the boat.We invited Trevor and Jan for drinks and gleaned lots of useful info on the ARC and places to stop on our way down. Then had our John Dory for supper, saving the clams for tomorrow. A lovely day.
Friday 19th June
Set sail today heading for Ria Pontevedra. This is new pastures for us as we are going further South than we managed with old Panties. Looking forward to exploring completely new Ria. Really hot today sailing in shorts and T shirt and bimini up. Gorgeous. Wind between 15 and 25 knots lovely. Decided to pass the time bread making. A very satisfactory loaf all ready for mopping up clam juices. Past some islands and into the Ria Pontevedra and anchored off a massive beach Playa Silgar just by Porto Novo. So hot even I retreated to the shade of our bimini and then went for a dip, first of the season! Flipping cold but very refreshing.
Stayed up late blasting Dire Straits into our own private anchorage and sitting on the foredeck watching the sunset. Ahhhhh romantic!!!
Gentle potter up the river to little Marina at Combarro after breakfasting in swimsuits.
It's fiesta time so must go and party.
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