Below and Beyond the 40th Parallel

Sat 4th July

Will's 18th Birhtday

Time to leave Porto where we have had a great time in a lovely Marina. There are also a load of international dinghy sailors preparing for the 49ers European Cup and practising for the Olympics. Apparently only one boat from each country can enter the Olympics so these championships are very important for the participants hoping for national selection. The GB boys have 3 boats here and some GB girls also here. I will have to check how they all do next week next time we get WIFI access which will probably be Lisbon. We plan to leave at 13.00, fuel up and then sail overnight to Nazare or Peniche depending how we get on. Both ports can be accessed in all weather conditions and have well protected marinas.

Sunday 5th July

We arrived in Peniche at 10.00 after a very fast down wind passage.

We only had the genoa out for most of the way with a consistent Force 5-6. The sea was fairly lively and quite rough at times and we were a bit rolly so we must sort out our twin head sails. We will do that after Lisbon. We had a chilli beef and beans casserole and then I had first 'sleep' although not much of that as still very rolly. Again thank goodness for Panties 2, I'm not sure we would have coped in Panties 1, our old Bavaria. I woke to a watch of moonlight and stars and Alex said that the moonrise was spectacular, a large, full orange moon emerging from the sea. I must admit I enjoy the night watch, all is quiet, there is just you and the waves with a beautiful night sky.

It is probably time to introduce you to Carly ( named after Carly Simon's song 'You're so vain' ) our wonderful Hydrovane self steering. She has been brilliant. You merely set the vane so that you sail at a certain angle to the wind which is very useful when you are trying to do the best course down wind. She is nice and quiet unlike the Autopilot and uses no energy. Apart from 2 fishing boats no one else about. We crossed below 40 degrees of longitude at 02.20 so very exciting to write 39 in the log book as it feels like another big step in our southerly journey. I then had a couple of hours kip and emerged to see the Peniche headland and the Isla da Berlenga and we stormed between the 2 and found some calmer waters as we rounded the headland in to Peniche past some interesting rock formations.

A very helpful marine policeman took our warps on the visitor's pontoon at Peniche and we moored next door to him. He seemed very friendly and came aboard to complete his paperwork.

The marina office was shut as its Sunday but Alex got an electronic pass for the pontoon from the Secutity guard. Showers then a well deserved brunch of potatoe,cheese and onion omelette. Off for an exploration and ambled around trying to work out which restaurant deserves our custom this evening. Decided on the Restaurant Sardinha as people were queuing for their Sunday lunch. Pottered around the old fort and museum which at one stage was a prison for political prisoners in the 50s, on the upper floor you can visit the prison cells where mainly communist prisoners were kept, some for 5 - 6 years confined to a very small space.

Back to the boat for a rest then out for dinner. We tried our new Spanish gin before departure and very disappointed as too aromatic. It was reassuringly expensive but we won't try that one again - Norde Atlantic Galician gin. Maybe we should keep to British gin, I noticed the Hendricks at €32 which would have been a better buy. Good fishy dinner at the restaurant with a mixed platter of grilled fish and some clams in about a litre of very tasty olive oil, garlic and herbs.

Monday 6th July

I do love Mondays now we are retired! Time to run off last night's olive oil so we set off round the headland and past the lighthouse along cliffs with weird rock formations a bit like the Giant's Causeway. Pretty hot as we came back to the village but we're not complaining! A walk up to the supermarket for some more fresh fruit and veg, peaches, figs, apricots, melon and pineapple. What a healthy diet and roast beef and braised endive for dinner tonight. We are going to set off early tomorrow morning for Lisbon. I've really enjoyed our stay in Peniche, especially some sunbathing in the afternoon watching all the fishing vessels coming and going. There is also a large beach where they held the European surfing championships.

Tuesday 7th July

Departed 07.00 in sunshine and some wind. Decided on the poled out genoa today. Sea much calmer so very pleasant. Only one stinkpot in the distance until much later when we saw a lovely Dutch yacht which we have seen before. Quite big and sleek and he was soon catching us up. As predicted the wind picked up and we were soon in a gale. It really was the nicest gale I have been in, very warm and sunny but with the wind regularly over 40 knots and 1 gust of 48 knots! Still it has done us and Panties good to experience that sort of wind, definitely the windiest I have been in. We were still doing nearly 7 knots with just a small amount of genoa. Even once we turned into the river it was still pretty windy although interspersed with periods of complete calm. Anyway very scenic up the river and luckily we got a large berth on the end of a pontoon otherwise it would have been pretty difficult trying to get into a finger berth in that amount of wind. Safely tucked up in Oeiras Marina. Beautiful surroundings plus large swimming pool and only €22 per night including bread rolls and free transfer to the station to catch the train to Lisbon. Amazing!

Weds 8th July

Breakfast in the sunshine then a trip into Lisbon for an explore. Lovely spot and marina man took us to the station and 10 mins later we are on the train to Lisbon. Scenic trip along the river with great views and able to see the other marinas which don't look as nice as Oeiras. Lisbon is really a lovely city with beautiful old buildings, large squares and lots of pedestrianised areas.

Climbed up the narrow back streets and investigated a couple of churches and took in the stunning views. Found a busy restaurant for mixed shellfish and fried sardines. The shellfish were cooked in masses of extra virgin olive oil,lemon,garlic and coriander, delicious. After lunch more climbing to the Moorish castle of Sao Jorge where we walked the walls and explored for a couple of hours.

Back to the station and a quick trip back to the lovely Marina at Oeiras.

Thursday 9th July

Off on an adventure. We have hired a car which the lovely lady in the marina office organised for us and we are driving down to Quinta da Lago to visit Wills who is there with 5 friends. We decided a surprise visit might not be the best idea when visiting 6 eighteen year old lads so they are forewarned of our arrival. Citroen cactus delivered to the marina at a cost of £35 a day, so pretty good value. Down the motorway to visit the lads. We took them for a supermarket shop where we were impressed by their healthy choices. Of course there was also beer, crisps and biscuits but also lots of fruit, veg and even salad. Back to the apartment with take away pizzas and sat in the sun chatting until pizzas demolished. Bye bye boys and enjoy the rest of your hols!

Alex and I then drove to Vilamoura where we drove around several times until we found our hotel. Unfortunately despite booking on line they were fully booked so we went to their sister hotel where we had a lovely upgraded room with balcony and sea views and a 15% discount so that was fine! A little swim and sunbathe in the hotel swimming pool and then a stroll about to identify a restaurant. We went to a blue and white restaurant at the start of the Marina and had shellfish cataplane for two. Mussels, clams, crab and loads of onions and peppers in a yummy sauce.

Next morning after a typical hotel breakfast and wander round the marina we head back to Lisbon. I was a bit miffed as Alex found a lovely shirt and shorts with 30% off in Gant and I didn't buy anything! Quick and pleasant journey back via a Continente supermarket ( Alex calls it the 'Incontinente' ) for a stock up whilst we have the car then back to Panties.

Sat 11th July

A morning of jobs and washing and then a trip to the marina pool where we were entertained by a jazz quartet! Early night as we are flying home tomorrow for 2 graduations and to catch up with all our fantastic children. Ali is graduating from the Peninsula Medical School and Mike from Southampton with his very good history degree. We will be back to Portugal and blogging in a couple of weeks so bye for now.

 

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