Below and Beyond the 40th Parallel

Sat 4th July

Will's 18th Birhtday

Time to leave Porto where we have had a great time in a lovely Marina. There are also a load of international dinghy sailors preparing for the 49ers European Cup and practising for the Olympics. Apparently only one boat from each country can enter the Olympics so these championships are very important for the participants hoping for national selection. The GB boys have 3 boats here and some GB girls also here. I will have to check how they all do next week next time we get WIFI access which will probably be Lisbon. We plan to leave at 13.00, fuel up and then sail overnight to Nazare or Peniche depending how we get on. Both ports can be accessed in all weather conditions and have well protected marinas.

Sunday 5th July

We arrived in Peniche at 10.00 after a very fast down wind passage.

We only had the genoa out for most of the way with a consistent Force 5-6. The sea was fairly lively and quite rough at times and we were a bit rolly so we must sort out our twin head sails. We will do that after Lisbon. We had a chilli beef and beans casserole and then I had first 'sleep' although not much of that as still very rolly. Again thank goodness for Panties 2, I'm not sure we would have coped in Panties 1, our old Bavaria. I woke to a watch of moonlight and stars and Alex said that the moonrise was spectacular, a large, full orange moon emerging from the sea. I must admit I enjoy the night watch, all is quiet, there is just you and the waves with a beautiful night sky.

It is probably time to introduce you to Carly ( named after Carly Simon's song 'You're so vain' ) our wonderful Hydrovane self steering. She has been brilliant. You merely set the vane so that you sail at a certain angle to the wind which is very useful when you are trying to do the best course down wind. She is nice and quiet unlike the Autopilot and uses no energy. Apart from 2 fishing boats no one else about. We crossed below 40 degrees of longitude at 02.20 so very exciting to write 39 in the log book as it feels like another big step in our southerly journey. I then had a couple of hours kip and emerged to see the Peniche headland and the Isla da Berlenga and we stormed between the 2 and found some calmer waters as we rounded the headland in to Peniche past some interesting rock formations.

A very helpful marine policeman took our warps on the visitor's pontoon at Peniche and we moored next door to him. He seemed very friendly and came aboard to complete his paperwork.

The marina office was shut as its Sunday but Alex got an electronic pass for the pontoon from the Secutity guard. Showers then a well deserved brunch of potatoe,cheese and onion omelette. Off for an exploration and ambled around trying to work out which restaurant deserves our custom this evening. Decided on the Restaurant Sardinha as people were queuing for their Sunday lunch. Pottered around the old fort and museum which at one stage was a prison for political prisoners in the 50s, on the upper floor you can visit the prison cells where mainly communist prisoners were kept, some for 5 - 6 years confined to a very small space.

Back to the boat for a rest then out for dinner. We tried our new Spanish gin before departure and very disappointed as too aromatic. It was reassuringly expensive but we won't try that one again - Norde Atlantic Galician gin. Maybe we should keep to British gin, I noticed the Hendricks at €32 which would have been a better buy. Good fishy dinner at the restaurant with a mixed platter of grilled fish and some clams in about a litre of very tasty olive oil, garlic and herbs.

Monday 6th July

I do love Mondays now we are retired! Time to run off last night's olive oil so we set off round the headland and past the lighthouse along cliffs with weird rock formations a bit like the Giant's Causeway. Pretty hot as we came back to the village but we're not complaining! A walk up to the supermarket for some more fresh fruit and veg, peaches, figs, apricots, melon and pineapple. What a healthy diet and roast beef and braised endive for dinner tonight. We are going to set off early tomorrow morning for Lisbon. I've really enjoyed our stay in Peniche, especially some sunbathing in the afternoon watching all the fishing vessels coming and going. There is also a large beach where they held the European surfing championships.

Tuesday 7th July

Departed 07.00 in sunshine and some wind. Decided on the poled out genoa today. Sea much calmer so very pleasant. Only one stinkpot in the distance until much later when we saw a lovely Dutch yacht which we have seen before. Quite big and sleek and he was soon catching us up. As predicted the wind picked up and we were soon in a gale. It really was the nicest gale I have been in, very warm and sunny but with the wind regularly over 40 knots and 1 gust of 48 knots! Still it has done us and Panties good to experience that sort of wind, definitely the windiest I have been in. We were still doing nearly 7 knots with just a small amount of genoa. Even once we turned into the river it was still pretty windy although interspersed with periods of complete calm. Anyway very scenic up the river and luckily we got a large berth on the end of a pontoon otherwise it would have been pretty difficult trying to get into a finger berth in that amount of wind. Safely tucked up in Oeiras Marina. Beautiful surroundings plus large swimming pool and only €22 per night including bread rolls and free transfer to the station to catch the train to Lisbon. Amazing!

Weds 8th July

Breakfast in the sunshine then a trip into Lisbon for an explore. Lovely spot and marina man took us to the station and 10 mins later we are on the train to Lisbon. Scenic trip along the river with great views and able to see the other marinas which don't look as nice as Oeiras. Lisbon is really a lovely city with beautiful old buildings, large squares and lots of pedestrianised areas.

Climbed up the narrow back streets and investigated a couple of churches and took in the stunning views. Found a busy restaurant for mixed shellfish and fried sardines. The shellfish were cooked in masses of extra virgin olive oil,lemon,garlic and coriander, delicious. After lunch more climbing to the Moorish castle of Sao Jorge where we walked the walls and explored for a couple of hours.

Back to the station and a quick trip back to the lovely Marina at Oeiras.

Thursday 9th July

Off on an adventure. We have hired a car which the lovely lady in the marina office organised for us and we are driving down to Quinta da Lago to visit Wills who is there with 5 friends. We decided a surprise visit might not be the best idea when visiting 6 eighteen year old lads so they are forewarned of our arrival. Citroen cactus delivered to the marina at a cost of £35 a day, so pretty good value. Down the motorway to visit the lads. We took them for a supermarket shop where we were impressed by their healthy choices. Of course there was also beer, crisps and biscuits but also lots of fruit, veg and even salad. Back to the apartment with take away pizzas and sat in the sun chatting until pizzas demolished. Bye bye boys and enjoy the rest of your hols!

Alex and I then drove to Vilamoura where we drove around several times until we found our hotel. Unfortunately despite booking on line they were fully booked so we went to their sister hotel where we had a lovely upgraded room with balcony and sea views and a 15% discount so that was fine! A little swim and sunbathe in the hotel swimming pool and then a stroll about to identify a restaurant. We went to a blue and white restaurant at the start of the Marina and had shellfish cataplane for two. Mussels, clams, crab and loads of onions and peppers in a yummy sauce.

Next morning after a typical hotel breakfast and wander round the marina we head back to Lisbon. I was a bit miffed as Alex found a lovely shirt and shorts with 30% off in Gant and I didn't buy anything! Quick and pleasant journey back via a Continente supermarket ( Alex calls it the 'Incontinente' ) for a stock up whilst we have the car then back to Panties.

Sat 11th July

A morning of jobs and washing and then a trip to the marina pool where we were entertained by a jazz quartet! Early night as we are flying home tomorrow for 2 graduations and to catch up with all our fantastic children. Ali is graduating from the Peninsula Medical School and Mike from Southampton with his very good history degree. We will be back to Portugal and blogging in a couple of weeks so bye for now.

 

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Untitled

Portugal Approaches

Saturday 20th June

Last blog ended with a large G&T (they're always large in Spain) prior to fiesta activities in Combarro, up the Ria de Pontevedro. Really quaint old village with a warren of extremely narrow streets with loads of bars and everywhere decorated for fiesta time. Found a busy bar for Tapas spider crab croquettes,langoustine and spicy sausage with some Rioja whilst we watched events in the main square which was decorated like a medieval fair and all the locals dressed in Medieval gear. Apparently it was the fiesta for a Mr Colon so will have to check him out next time we have WIFI. Surprisingly quiet night at the Marina as apart from jousting no annoying fun fair or loud music.

Ps Its Christopher Columbus!

Sunday 21st June

Must be mad as decided a run was in order this morning. Ridiculously hot and all up hill from the Marina. Lots of barking dogs and vines. Very happily turned to run back down with fabulous views. Hosed down ourselves and the boat when we returned then healthy breakfast of fresh fruit, nuts, yoghurt and honey and then time to leave. Just as we were organising ropes we met a couple from Lymington, Richard and Celia Lassen on their Swedish yacht. Guess what they've also done the ARC so more chat before we set off for an anchorage recommended by Gareth Thomas. He borrowed our Galician pilot book and has put in some very useful comments eg nudist beach, caught a squid here and some which should not appear in a blog!

Gentle potter tacking up the Ria accompanied by some leaping Dolphins and a custom's boat who is giving everyone a good look. The few Spanish yachts seem to just genoa up to an anchorage for lunch and then return. Gareth's spot very lovely. Initially 3 other yachts and a few stink pots who all started leaving at 7ish until we were all alone. Very hot evening, rose to drink tonight and more music as there is no one here to disturb.

Monday 22nd June

Slept until nearly 10 o'clock and on a Monday morning too. Lazy start today, scrambled eggs and Spanish ham before setting off for the Ria de Vigo and Cangas. Still very warm but a little overcast.

How deceptively calm and lovely at our anchorage and how wrong are weather forecasts. My first Atlantic gale but at least it was a warm gale! I think we would have turned around in our old boat especially as we were beating in to the wind. Saw three other yachts, 2 Brits and an Irish, only we are mad enough to go out in this! Luckily there was space in Cangas Marina. Tee hee we got the last berth. Day trip to Vigo tomorrow.

Lovely day in Vigo pottering about and climbing up to the old castle with lovely views, then a wander through the old streets where we happened on a very busy restaurant and couldn't resist! Pimientos de patron, baby squid and prawns followed by cream cheese, walnuts and honey. Then ferry back over to Cangas.

Weds 24th June

A bit of motoring down the Viga in a bit of a gloomy morning. Managed a bit of sailing around into the bay of Baiona. Moored on a wobbly finger pontoon in the very picturesque Monte Real Yates yacht club, claimed to be the oldest in Spain. It is situated just below the lovely old castle and we shall walk the walls tomorrow. We have also spotted a bakery with loads of mini cakes and tarts which we will definitely have tomorrow.

Time for a run this morning all along the promenade, round the headland and along the beach. Pretty hot again so back for showers and boat cleaning plus a few jobs. We have found a helpful Chandlers where Alex got a robust swivel shackle for the anchor and ordered an anchor buoy that will arrive by 10 tomorrow am! Lovely old (1957 ) wooden boat came alongside. Drumbeat heading North back to the Isle of Man. Got chatting as one does and turns out that the lady of the boat is an anaesthetist who knows Dashers - Adrian Dashfield who was a consultant in Plymouth.

Got the BBQ this evening and had a rather amazing dinner of BBQ ribs from the Uraguayan butcher and butter beans in a barbecue sauce. This was followed by a selection of mine cakes all absolutely delicious. We have been very healthy so far but really enjoyed this treat.

Friday 26th June

A trip up to the supermarket and a good stock up of food. Alex collected his buoy from the chandlers plus some more tarts from the lovely patisserie. Met Irish Mike from Galway with his beautiful 72 foot ketch made in Holland called Orchestra. Loads of Irish in Galicia, apparently a lot just stay and don't get any further South. I can quite understand as it is a lovely cruising area with some great unspoilt spots, friendly people, superb sea food,cheap and the wines pretty good too. What more could you want? We had a lovely guided tour of Orchestra and even I had to admire the immaculate engine room which was nearly as impressive as the galley and master bedroom including a pole for dancing! Again lots of general chat about sailing and the ARC and the Caribbean. We do meet some lovely people and everyone wants to discuss their adventures and experiences.

Replica of the Pinta the first of Christopher Columbus's boats to return, in the marina at Baiona

Decided to go and moor in the bay to save 45€ - and that is with our ARC discount, so as we're pensioners we need to save our cents! Beautiful in the bay with one other French boat and time for some R&R followed by scrabble. We seem to have started a trend as by evening half a dozen boats anchored. Decided to make them all envious with our barbecued sea bass and pimentos peppers. Lovely especially as followed by fruit tart and lemon meringue pie from the patisserie. We are certainly keeping up our extremely high haute cuisine standards at the moment!

Saturday 27th June

Portugal here we come. We will cross the border around lunchtime today which will be another big step in our trip towards the South. Absolutely beautiful morning with clear blue skies again and lovely and warm. Cruising chute poled out today.

Got it up and out very easily, practice makes perfect! A good run in the morning and goat cheese toasties for lunch to celebrate our arrival in Portugal. Portuguese courtesy flag up and a view of the Spanish/Portuguese border

Wind started its afternoon increase so chute down and running along on just the genoa with a good 1 knot current whisking us down the coast. Great sunbathing until wind reaching over 30 knots then tops on as we whizz around into Viana do Castella. Yet another amazing beach with loads and loads of windsurfers and kite suffers enjoying the gale and sunshine! Just had to hope they were all in control enough to avoid us as they were relishing storming past us, doing jumps, waving and generally seeing who could get the closest to us! It was a relief to get round the bend in the river when the wind dropped to 10 knots and we were ridiculously hot again. Moored at a visitors pontoon, helped by very nice Marina man.literelly just below a rather fine road and rail bridge designed by a certain Mr Eiffel and you can see the resemblance. Nicholson in front called Elfin Lady from Bristol heading Northwards from the Med and a Bavaria 46 moored behind us with 6 Fins on board. They are heading for the Canaries for August and doing the ARC next year.

Went for an evening perambulate. Beautiful little town with a massive church, Sacre Coeur, perched on the top with a funicular railway. You can tell we are in a different country, pretty tiled houses and a definitely quieter atmosphere. I've found a new drink- White port and tonic, very aromatic and refreshing served in a massive glass with tons of lemon and ice. I'd read about it in the guide book and the lovely waiter at the bar in the square recommended the White port. I shall have some more of these! The bill for that and a large beer was 6.40€, not bad at all and a lovely setting plus free crisps. Back to the boat for Galician steak and chips with garlic spinach and evening sunshine. Next food we buy will be Portuguese.

Kate phoned at 4.30 this am so had a major panic but she was still merely out on the town in Plymouth and rang accidentally. Calmed down and went back to sleep. You never stop worrying about children! Alex's are all at Glastonbury so hope they're all ok and having a great time.

Sunday 28th June

Couldn't quite decide what to do today, so many options. Shall we stay in this lovely spot or anchor at one or another of the potential harbours down the coast. As it is such a lovely sailing day decided to leave and keep our options open as we travel down the coast. Hot and sunny with a F 5 abaft the beam, calmish sea, just perfect. Needed to avoid a wind farm which turned out to be a lone turbine in the middle of the sea. How weird it looked.

Plenty to keep us occupied on passage. Navigation, sail trimming and sail pattern changes according to the wind. Tidying, eating and drinking. Spanish to learn and I've also got to keep up with my sailing theory as I am definitely doing my Yachtmaster practical in Gib at the end of August. Plenty to keep my brain active.

Decided to anchor at Leixos. As usual the wind kicked up as we were heading in to harbour. Leixos is on the North bank of the Douro and is Porto's big port so we were basically anchored off a small beach in the middle of a container port! However quite interesting watching the tugs and pilot ships in action. 2 other boats at the anchorage so nice and quiet.

Monday 29th June

Woke up to dense fog and a fog horn blasting every 30 seconds. Couldn't see more than 30 metres or so. Our plan was to move to the marina in Porto which is literally 6 miles or so but we need to go up the Douro during a flood tide otherwise it gets very tricky. If the fog doesn't lift by 12 ish we will have to stay. Decided to head in to the local Marina at 2 ish which is just around the mole and visibility slightly better. Safely moored in the marina and weather improving now, just sort of misty. Off for an exploration through the old village and identify some potential restaurants for the evening. Find the Camping gas supplier but he's gone off on his hols and is shut for 2 weeks - that's no good! Out of the old village and find a massive beach and lovely promenade with lots of pretty tents you can rent as beach huts. Loads of people on the beach, paddling and volleyball. At the end of the promenade we find a big supermarket. First Portuguese shop. Alex has been desperate to find pate de sardines and we are not disappointed. Well supplied we return to the boat along the promenade then out for dinner. Oh what a night! Found a very busy back street family run restaurant which was almost full at 19.45. Big party of ladies with Dad the only chap there who was probably only there to pay the bill! We didn't need to choose starters as we were presented with a massive plate of prawns and some delicious battered sardines and bread basket. We then ordered a clam and pork casserole. The patron told us one dish would be enough for both of us and he was certainly right about that. Great dinner enlivened by chatting to Mona and John, a Portuguese teacher and lawyer who told us we were in the best restaurant. They live in Porto but often come out to this restaurant, about 20 mins from where they live. Most people were having the dish of the day, spaghetti, chicken and spicy sausage which Mona and John let us try. Spent the evening chatting with them and staggered out about 22.30, a late night for us!

 

True live aboards with our herbs and over 750 miles so far !

Tuesday 30th June

Hurrah we can see this morning so we shall make haste to Porto. Engine on and out past lots do local fisherman. Quite an exciting exit from the harbour as we had to rapidly reverse as a large tanker loomed into the narrow harbour entrance. We watched as the tugs turned him around so he reversed in. We snuck past as he turned aft to. Lovely entrance to the Douro with plenty of local fishermen cluttering up the transit as warned about in the pilot book. Into the Douro Marina, very smart with definitely a higher calibre of boats around. Saw the Fins leaving as we moored up

Chatted to Frank and Ann on their Ovni and also met a chap from Newton Ferrers who knows John Lytle who has kept his Bowman in the Carribean for 10 years. Decided to walk in to Porto and have a nosy about. Realised we were going to walk right past all the Port Caves and got waylaid by Taylor's! Arrived just in time for the 2 o'clock English tour and a little glass of white port whilst we waited. Really interesting tour and the aromas from the oak barrels was fantastic.

Afterwards we were given a glass of Ruby and Tawny port and we retired to the terrace to imbibe and soak up the lovely views of Porto across the Douro.

Continued our walk along the Douro and cross the bridge into Porto. Lots of lovely old buildings along the front, a funicular and good views up the old streets. Decide to return to the boat via the old tram line with trams from the 30s and a water taxi back to the marina. Roast chicken tonight but I first had to remove her head and feet. Made some stock but discarded the packet of chicken blood which came with her! Ann and Frank popped round to give us one food as they were heading home in the morning. We may meet up with them later as they are also heading for the Canaries. Slightly disturbed night from the fair and noisy warp. Luckily music stopped at 01.00 rather than 04.00!

Weds 1st July

Off to find the large supermarket which delivers to the Marina. An interesting walk up the back streets of the old fishing village. Lots of new apartments at the top and massive supermarket which was very quiet. Not like the supermarkets at home which are heaving in comparison. Had a little wait till they found someone to speak English and managed to organise the delivery. More of a hypermarket but all nicely laid out and great fresh produce so we will come again before we leave. Eventually manged the checkout after again eventually managing to arrange delivery and saw all our shopping loaded in to boxes. We have had a good stock up on wine, water, milk, tins and some new gin to try, etc. Hope we see it all again at the marina!

Decide to go in to Porto for the afternoon and do an open top bus tour. Water taxi and tram in to the centre and then have a pleasant hour and half seeing the sights from the bus. Hop off before the end and meander back down to the river for a white port and tonic and watch the world go by. We decided to walk back across the bridge and get a taxi back which works out cheaper than tram and water taxi. Get the washing in which we'd hung out in the morning. No sign of the supermarket shop as yet. Just before dinner of chicken curry we thought we should check with the marina office and there is our shopping. A very nice marina man loaded it into a trolley and brought it down for us. They are lovely here and a very nice lady who speaks excellent English n the office is very helpful. We organise a taxi for the morning as we are going on a river cruise. Stow the shopping, dinner and bed ready for our adventure tomorrow.

Thursday 2nd July

We need to be at the station for 08.30 so up early and leave just as the marina fresh rolls are delivered. We had them for breakfast yesterday with our very expensive French honey. It's very nice to have warm rolls delivered in time for breakfast. They should do that at Salcombe! Taxi waiting for us so off to the train station. We will be on a train for a couple of hours and then cruise back to Porto on a river boat. We get to the station in plenty of time so go in search of some naughty Patisserie. A pineapple pastry for me and a peach one for Alex and a very cheap cafe con leche at the train cafe. Meet up with the tour guide and looks like about 30 on the trip. Train trip through the Portuguese countryside watching out for vines and pretty allotments. Some beautiful bits along the river so should be a picturesque cruise back. Passed through some very pretty little stations with beautiful gardens. Who will win the best kept station award?

Arrived at Ruega where we followed our guide down to our river boat. Loads of room on board and we settled ourselves at an outdoor starboard table. Lovely scenery as we started down the river past a Sandeman vineyard.

Then downstairs for lunch where we sat with a lovely Norwegian couple, Oyuid and Tone and spent a very pleasant lunch chatting. Red wine was supplied and nice lunch veg soup, pork and loads of veg and chocolate ice cream cake. A pair of elderly French sisters didn't manage any of their bottle so we helped them out. We had a very relaxing afternoon on deck watching the Portuguese countryside roll by until we arrived at the first dam. We followed another river boat into a massive lock, the deepest in Europe and descended 70 m. Very exciting.

We went through 2 more locks which were still impressive but not as deep as the first. A lovely day out with a little more port and tonic to finish the day.

Friday 3rd July

Jobs day today after all that R&R yesterday. Off for a run along the coast. More beautiful beaches around the headland. Then off to the supermarket for more supplies and then back for washing and cleaning. BBQ out for a large reddish fish, some sort of Dorado which cooked and went beautifully With our very cheap ratatouille ( 10p for courgettes, 15p for aubergine ).

Sat 4th July

Happy 18th Birthday Wills, we will ring later! Ready to set sail today. We are going to do a longer trip and sail overnight and see where we end up as there are a couple of options. Hot sun and good wind so perfect.

 

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Round the corner

Arrived back in La Coruna after flying trip home. It's cheaper to fly from La Coruna to Heathrow than to get from Heathrow to home - how does that make sense! Back to the boat just in time for late dinner at the lovely Marina restaurant. Alex had his steak and I had ham,egg and chips Spanish style.

Thursday 11th June

Planning to leave on Sunday as wind is becoming northerly and weather looks perfect for our next leg. We will use the next couple of days to complete a few more jobs. I've moved into top gear teak deck cleaning and it's now looking jolly marvellous. We've also marked the anchor chain and Alex has done some serious lazarette sorting. Also managed our final La Coruna run and made it up to the Hercules lighthouse for some final great views. Plenty of food has been gathered from market and supermarket so we're ready for a prompt start on Sunday.

Sunday 14th June

Time to leave. We've had a great time here but ready to sail further South especially as the weather looks set fair with steady norther lies. Quick trip to the fuel barge to fill up after using some fuel across Biscay. Alex reckons we use a litre a mile. Luckily with all our new fantastic green energy sources we won't need to use the generator too often.

We've started a rush of boats leaving with the 2 French boats following us to the fuel barge and out of port. Alex let me do the boat manoeuvres and all went well. Sunny trip down the coast with the wind piping up just after we decided to head to Corme for the night. Entered fairly cautiously with 25 knots of wind and not a lot of space between the breakwater and viveiros ( large mussel growing platforms ). Corme looks very quiet with little signs of activity and the shell fish farm looking derelict. Perfect anchorage between 2 small beaches and soon joined by a French Ovni and small Irish ketch. Roast chicken as its Sunday with lemon and garlic.

Monday 15th June

Perfect sunny morning. Time to weigh anchor and head for Finisterre ( the end of the world ) first negotiating the Costa la Morte ( the coast of death ). Sounds like a fun day!

Funny to think we are retracing the route we took with Panties 1 (Pantalaimon 1 our old Bavaria36 ). I can remember this passage 5 years ago when it was quite gloomy and a large Atlantic swell and the coast looked very ominous. Luckily today is very warm and sunny with wind F4 abaft the beam and a pretty flat sea. Couldn't really be any better so cruising chute up shorts and sun cream and quickly overtook the Ovni which left a good while before us.

Wind soon piped up and had to get the chute down when gusting 26 knots. Lovely and sunny though but as we got to Finisterre we ended up with 2 reefs and staysail. They're quite right when they say the wind gets quite fierce around Finisterre over 35 knots. Sailed up behind Finisterre to a sheltered anchorage between 2 beautiful beaches. Hot sun and a G&T - heaven. Chicken and spicy sausage tonight on deck in a very lovely place.

Tuesday 16th June

Off to our favourite Galician port - Muros. Left our lovely anchorage and heading South again. A very pleasant sail with the wind behind us, sunshine and warmth. Arrived at Muros mid afternoon for a sunbathe and scrabble.

Next morning we weighed anchor and moved into the lovely new Marina which has been built since our last visit 5 years ago. Loads of people in the sea raking for clams.

Met at the marina by Pedro who was extremely helpful taking our lines and ensuring we had moored in a satisfactory manner! Alex went to do the paperwork and then we had the customs inspecting us led by a lovely young Spanish lady who was very excited by the weather which is going to be hot and sunny at least until after the weekend. Off for some shopping at the very handy Gadis ( supermarket ) as we urgently required white wine and sparkling water. After stowing the food we went to refresh our memories of Muros which really is delightful. A lovey promenade along the sea front and a mass of little back streets. We identified the restaurant where we previously had an excellent lunch and decide to return to make sure it's still as good. Lovely cod casserole for me and monkfish and prawns for Alex after starters of razor clams and calamares all washed down with a rather scrummy Albariño. Finished lunch about 17.30 just in time for a drink.

After our excesses the next morning we set out for a long walk planning to get to the lighthouse at the end of the San Francisco beach. However got way laid by Trevor and Jan from Ruby, a very fit couple in their 70s who have done the ARC three times so it can't be that bad. Had a long chat then headed to the tourist office via the washing machine - clean sheets tonight. We found a very helpful young man in the town hall/ tourist office who obviously wanted to practise his English and gave us very detailed information plus a couple of maps. Off we set in blazing sunshine with a cooling breeze. Lovely walk to San Francisco beach and then along a shady path bordering the beach. Then we turned down the isthmus to the lighthouse. Lovely views and a path round the headland to a lake and another nearly deserted spectacular white sanded beach with turquoise water. We then turned back and wended our way back, 20km altogether. We went straight to the nearest cafe for beer and cafe frappe - delicious.

On our return to Panties we found Hejira a Southerly moored by us who is doing the ARC+. They had engine failure on the way in and no wind so ended up using their our board. They seem to have had a few problems and is also running to a schedule in order to deliver crew to airports. Another quick trip to the very handy Gadis so now well stocked with lots of lovely food. A huge chunk of pork for €3.50 which will definitely do 2 dinners plus lots of lovely fruit, fresh figs, nectarines,apricots and oranges. A quick visit to the fish stall for clams and John Dory fresh off the boat.We invited Trevor and Jan for drinks and gleaned lots of useful info on the ARC and places to stop on our way down. Then had our John Dory for supper, saving the clams for tomorrow. A lovely day.

Friday 19th June

Set sail today heading for Ria Pontevedra. This is new pastures for us as we are going further South than we managed with old Panties. Looking forward to exploring completely new Ria. Really hot today sailing in shorts and T shirt and bimini up. Gorgeous. Wind between 15 and 25 knots lovely. Decided to pass the time bread making. A very satisfactory loaf all ready for mopping up clam juices. Past some islands and into the Ria Pontevedra and anchored off a massive beach Playa Silgar just by Porto Novo. So hot even I retreated to the shade of our bimini and then went for a dip, first of the season! Flipping cold but very refreshing.

Stayed up late blasting Dire Straits into our own private anchorage and sitting on the foredeck watching the sunset. Ahhhhh romantic!!!

Gentle potter up the river to little Marina at Combarro after breakfasting in swimsuits.

It's fiesta time so must go and party.

 

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The Spanish Adventure

Thursday 28th May

We are so pleased to have come straight over to Spain. It is lovely to be in sunshine and La Coruna is a great city to spend a little bit of time.

Very picturesque and funnily enough great bars and restaurants. The only problem is getting into Spanish time so lunch at 15.00 and don't even think of dinner until after 21.00. Lots of lovely fish in the market and quite a few we don't recognise but lovely and fresh and very good value.

Lots of shell fish so we are going to be braver and cook clams and razor clams.

We had a lovely 40 mile sail from Cedeira into La Coruna with the wind behind and the sun shining. Up to 30 knots of wind so a reef in the main and the staysail which seemed to work well. Alex still very excited by the amount of energy we produced whilst at anchor and we left with fully charged batteries.

Had a few conversations with the Captain of a very large container ship heading to Ferrol the large commercial port opposite La Coruna. After a couple of course changes we managed to miss each other and he very politely radioed us to say thank you. Lovely to return to the La Coruna marina after 5 years. We kept our last boat a Bavaria 36 here for a winter 5 years ago and nothing seems to have changed. The rather lovely young lady in the marina office remembered the name Pantalaimon and the young Irish chap is still here who also remembered so we feel very at home and most welcomed. The marina is pretty empty with a couple of Brits, Swedes, French and German boats. Got a pretty good deal on berthing fees as we are staying a couple of weeks and flying home for a week on Wednesday.The best thing is it's warm and sunny.

Friday 29th May

Cleaning,tidying,washing and shopping today. Started the teak cleaning as its time to make Pantie's beautiful. We left in such a rush that lots of little jobs didn't quite get done so it's lovely to have some time here to get a little more ship shape. Somehow all these jobs are so much more pleasant to do in the sunshine. Had a lovely trip to the market and have some enormous langoustines and John Dory for supper as are ward for all our hard labours. Quite enjoying the Albariño white wine too.

Saturday 30th May

Time for a run. Off we trot all along the beautiful promenade in the sunshine. Fantastic cycle track and loads of people walking, jogging, running and cycling with a superb view of the bay. On the way back we detour around the back of the lighthouse, the Tour d'Hercules. Back for lunch and chores then showers. We are going to have Saturday night out on the town! A lovely stroll in and exploration discovering pretty little squares and the odd bar for a glass of Albariño. Time for tapas so we have already spotted a Pulperia with octopi arranged very attractive in large glass vases! Calamares to start then potatoe and octopus with paprika all washed down with some red. Yum yum. Living on sea food at the moment.

Here are the clam fishermen in action.

Sunday 31st May

Tapas out is not enough for us we've decided to do Sunday lunch and are booked into the very smart Marina restaurant for 15.00. Before that we'd better have another run to work up an appetite so off we go again. Not quite so sunny today so ran a bit faster and enjoyed the slightly cooler temperature. Smartened up for lunch, I even put a frock on and Alex a smart shirt and jacket. We shared a plate of clams ' Marinera' in a delicious fragrant light tomato sauce then Alex had a very nice steak and I had marinated pork with onions. Both very delicious and we'd better have pud too, tiramisu and cheesecake. Stagger back to the boat for Scrabble and bed.

Monday 1st June

Better get a few more jobs done today. Another trip to the shops. Very good supermarket and we are going to do hake casserole tonight. Alex made some lovely fish stock with the shells of the langoustines and the bones of the John Dory and we are going to add onion, potatoe,garlic and fresh peas plus paprika. How Spanish is that? Back to the boat with the supplies then off to the chandlers which is a good walk along the lovely sea front which is nearly all pedestrianised plus cycle path. We've noticed some cruise ships coming in which I'm sure weren't here before and looking at the numbers disgorged must be bringing some wealth into the city which is looking reasonably affluent. Although there are a few beggars around which again I don't remember seeing previously.

Took a couple of pics of the hospital here which looks a little more attractive than Derriford.

The trip to the chandlers wasn't a great success as we were served from a counter and had to try and explain in Spanish our various requirements. Never mind we'll collect what we need when we go home. A bit more teak cleaning and jobs in the afternoon and our delicious Spanish hake supper. We've decided to go to Santiago de Compostello tomorrow for a bit of an outing.

Tuesday 2nd June

Up early for our day trip out. A brisk 45 min walk to the station then 2 very cheap return tickets to Santiago. Only 30 min train journey. A remarkable city almost completely devoid of modernisation. Very narrow streets with arched covered walkways and all beautifully kept. You can truly imagine the pilgrims and devout wandering through these very same streets centuries ago. After a coffee and tortilla we obtained a map and information from the tourist centre and hot footed to the cathedral. Very atmospheric and impressive sculptures, chapels and amazing altar. Had a lovely wander around with a recorded guide and the went to kiss and embrace St James then down to the crypt to see the holy remains. Just as we were thinking of leaving a small mass was performed with the chanting led by a nun with a remarkable voice. Quite spine tingling even for an atheist!

We then followed the map around the main historic buildings popping in to the odd church or two and enjoying the busy market. All absolutely beautiful, clean and so well preserved. Must be time for lunch and that means more seafood. Stopped at a very typical Spanish family run restaurant and manged more clams Marinera,razor clams, sardines and Albariño. A wander through the park then time to catch the train home to Panties. A very enjoyable day out. Tomorrow we are flying home for a week to catch up with children and collect a few more bits and pieces. Back next Wednesday!

Pics of Santiago to follow!

 

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Day 1 Departing QAB PLYMOUTH

OMG today is the day we leave QAB

All that planning and preparation is done although we haven't quite done all the jobs we wanted to. Thanks to Andy who has spent the last 3 and a half days sorting all the electrics. We now have our solar panels wind generator and sat phone all connected and functioning.

Woke to a lovely sunny morning and left QAB via the fuel barge.Dinner last night at Rockfish with skippers and crew of Firestorm, Seaborne and Brainwave after a frantic day of loading stowing and vitalling.

Dramatically tidier after an afternoon of frantic activity!

Gentle motor to Cawsand with bacon butties en route.

Bye bye Plymouth

Anchored by Firestorm and deployed the secret weapon ie furling cruising chute. Weighed anchor at 10.15 then motor sailing with our friends in the sunshine. Hopefully cruising chute will be utilised after Start Point.

Firestorm - Walter Douie, Tim Wheatley, Matthew Cramp and Julian.

Seaborne - Jonathan and Sarah Unsworth White and Chris Burrell

Brainwave - Peter and Juliette Whitfield, Mac Armstrong and Stuart Weatherby.

Hurrah cruising chute easily unfurled and sailing beautifully. Seaborne and Firestorm took advantage of light winds and went ahead and we just stayed ahead of Brainstorm and hurtled in towards the Dart.

Moored at Dittisham rafted to Firestorm. I took 2 attempts to get alongside as reversed too much on first attempt. Time for tea and socials as Seaborne crew arrived for a good nosy around and chat. Soon followed by Brainstorm as well. Quick brush up, roast lamb plus red currant jus and the a run ashore with Firestorm providing water taxi services.

Couple of pints in the pub with all assembled and in jolly good form. I think the trip back was uneventful!

Morning departure from Dittisham.

Ready for France this morning. Sun shining and NW wind forecast so off we go. This time it really is goodbye and we were waved off by Firestorm and Seaborne.

Gentle motor out of the Dart. This time it is farewell Enland and France here we come.

Once out of the Dart we set a course towards the Chanel du Four and our first bit of excitement was a horrendous confused sea off Start Point. A bit different to yesterday. We battled thro that then continued with a good F 5 and quite a large sea swell. Too much for us to do bacon butties so waited till lunch of pate. I had a snooze after lunch and the afternoon and evening were a bit more manageable. Alex had concocted a pork and lentil casserole while I was sleeping which we had with baked potatoes. The wind was now a steady 3-4 so Alex went for his kip. We decided to go to L'Aberwrach as we would get to the Chanel du Four 2-3 hours too early and it was quite chilly.

We made excellent progress and averaged over 7 knots and soon saw the lights of France with the Ile de Vierge lighthouse. Alex emerged and we sailed towards the light of the Libenter and then followed the leading lights in past the Pot du Beurre. Visibility wasn't brilliant at the Marina so we hastily moored on the outside of the visitors pontoon and sorted out the lines despite the lack of proper cleats. So tucked up and we've made it to France after yet another interesting Channel crossing. I won't miss doing that for a while!

Day 5

L'Aberwrach

 

Too windy to go anywhere so cleaning tidying eating and drinking!

 

Not a bad life.

 

 

Camaret sur Mer.

Last morning in France.

Off to supermarket to get our supplies for Biscay. May need moral boosting morsels to keep us chirpy.

Lots of nice fruit and veg. Lovely Rouget and langoustines from the poissonerie. Special offer langoustines 9.90 € kilo bargain. Fish tonight on board, home made beef curry for Sat night and chicken for Sunday roast. That should keep us happy plus some pate, cheese and naughty pork pie for lunches. Oh yes and 2 boxes of red wine.

Returned to Panties with provisions then coffee and Wifi whilst Alex tries to sort out his mailasail emailing.

After a quick lunch off again to try to find music adaptor and to collect a couple of big waters. Postcards for Ems, Wills and Mum. Final preparations on Panties for 09.00 departure tomorrow morning. Curry cooked for tomorrow night and delicious fish supper. Last night of French sleep the Biscay here we come.

Saturday

Up and raring to go. Prompt departure and Alex let me reverse out. Not much wind to start with so cruising chute out then in and motor on.

Soon wind picked up so cruising chute out again and nice sail past the Raz and out into Biscay.

Time for lunch.

Bargain Langoustines!

 

Visibility terrible and really quite foggy in patches but at least no rain And not too much swell.

Good progress and warming beef curry for supper and a glass of red wine. My turn for first sleep. Night passed pleasantly enough and vis much better in the morning. Black pudding sarnies for breakfast. Definitely feeling warmer. Played quite a bit with various sail plans and had cruising chute one side poled out with genoa on the other side attached to the boom. We certainly improved with practice and are much more confident with the pole.

Unfortunately the wind then died so we motored overnight as wind only 5-8 knots. Still a nice calm sea meant good progress. Alex saw the moon and stars plus some very frisky Dolphins. One was jumping so high he nearly landed on board.

Monday was again quite grey with the odd bit of drizzle but still no wind. Saw loads of Dolphins who came and swam with us for about an hour. Lots of different schools again some jumping very high out of the water. Was this to impress the girls? Took lots of photos.

Quite gloomy in the afternoon as we approached the Spanish coast and saw our first vessel a good sized fishing boat. The wind suddenly returned and we whooshed towards Spain with 20-25 knots on a broad reach. Finally imposing grey cliffs loomed out of the mist. Land ahoy. The Cedeira Ria entrance opened up before us and we headed for our anchorage accompanied by a Spanish fishing vessel. Much calmer as we headed in turning to port and anchoring in Spain. All very easy and straight forward. Roast chicken on, large glasses of rose and some boat tidying before snuggling down below for dinner and a nice calm night's sleep.

Tuesday 27th May SPAIN!

Still a bit grey on wakening but much warmer - hurrah. Gentle start after our lovely restful night. Breakfast of fruit and yogurt then up with the dinghy and off to land. Can I remember how to walk? Cedeira looking lovely as clouds part and sunshine arrives and it feels HOT.

Off to the supermarket for provisioning and our memories of our previous visit return. It is a lovely very Spanish place where no one speaks English. As we wander around soaking up the scene we keep our eyes peeled for a suitable lunch spot, somewhere with a good choice of sea food. Stopped for cafe con leche at little bar and watched the waitress carefully water her geraniums and then mist them with a water spray. Sat outside in glorious sunshine. Time to take provisions back to Panties then shorts on and out to lunch.

Found the perfect place with very helpful waitress who presented us with menus and a fantastic picture book of fish and shellfish so we knew exactly what to order. Gambas and scallops for starters with delicious sauces to mop up with Galician bread. Alex had cod a la plancha and I had hake in a tomato sauce with crispy potatoes. Excellent wine and even pudding. Just perfect. We are really noticing how much cheaper food and drink is compared to France, another good reason to have headed straight here along of course with the sun. Still amazed at how late the Spanish come out for lunch, people were coming in well after 3.

Back to the boat for some serious sunbathing and watching the world go by then downstairs for cribbage and cheese and biscuits. A truly perfect day.

Even better is the excitement of seeing the amps floe into the batteries from our wonderful solar panels and wind generator. With the extra roaming panel we are getting 11 amps per hour and batteries fully charged at anchor. Maybe I can use the hairdryer!

Weds 28th May.

Time for a bit of exercise so shorts and trainers and off for a good walk. All together about 20 Los walking. Firstly up to the old fort where we'd been with Kate and Wills then we followed the very small road along the coast to the lighthouse. Very few cars and lovely and tranquil through wooded areas of pine and eucalyptus. Very aromatic and some stunning views. Back to the boat and ready for our trip to La Coruna tomorrow. We were visited by the French man from the neighbouring boat who was full of compliments about Pantie's suitability for an Atlantic crossing. Also told us how lovely Madeira is with fantastic walks and food and recommended some places. We will seriously think about going there.

 

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